''Camembert''? It usually isn't square, made with a blend of pasteurized sheep and cow milk, and boasting a slippery, thick texture and mild, well-salted flavor. Disregard for convention doesn't end there. In order to control seasonal milk supply, the Old Chatham herdsmen must overcome the shortening day cue for sheep's fall mating. So, they leave the barn lights on 22 hours a day during the fall and winter months; when they do go out on pasture in March, a group of 10 rams is brought in. The so-called ''Ram Effect,'' appears to be quite successful. Another effective coupling would be this cheese and a glass of white Bordeaux. 2011 American Cheese Society Winner