Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are.'' So said the gastronome Brillat Savarin. Being cheese experts, we'll tell you that if you like this cheese you are a genius. The best triple-creme we've found, ripened in Murray's caves, means 75% butterfat, and a thin, edible, snowy rind with nary a whiff of ammonia. All fresh, lactic flavor with an edging of mushroomy balances each buttercream icing bite. Pasteurized, yes, but masterful as the many bloomy rinds from Normandy are. Cut that fat with bubbles, from California to Champagne to Italian.