Traditionally, fresh cheeses were dusted in wood ash to encourage the development of a molded rind, aglow with patches of blue and gray mold. The beauty of importing unaged rounds is that each goes to Murray's aging cave where we control the development of a perfect rind: thin and cohesive, with a tiny, oOZing creamline atop a fluffy interior paste with the pleasant texture of damp clay. The rind delivers insistent mineral notes, while the center is all briny, goaty tang and new-mown grass. Never again eat a goat cheese with thick, soapy rind. Like many goats, this one is known for its compatibility with Sauvignon Blanc.